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Fabric ·

A short glossary of our fabrics

Momme, double-faced, fully-fashioned — the terms on our labels, translated.

A short glossary of our fabrics

Our labels name things precisely, which sometimes reads like a secret code. Here is the decoder.

Momme (silk). Silk’s weight unit — how many pounds a bolt of 100 yards weighs. Cheap slips are 12–14 momme; ours is 19. Heavier silk drapes instead of fluttering, survives hand washes, and doesn’t show every seam underneath.

Double-faced (wool). Two layers of cloth woven as one, finished on both sides — no lining needed, twice the structure. It’s why the wrap coat holds a silhouette without shoulder padding.

Fully-fashioned (knitwear). Each panel is knitted to its final shape, not cut from a sheet and sewn. Seams lie flat, nothing frays, and the garment keeps its geometry wash after wash.

Bonded twill (trench). Two fabrics fused for weatherproofing without rubberised stiffness. Rain rolls off; the drape stays.

Vegetable-tanned (leather). Tanned with tree bark instead of chrome salts — slower, kinder, and it’s the only leather that develops a real patina. Your belt at year five will out-style your belt at day one.

When a term on any label puzzles you — write to us. The person who chose the fabric answers the fabric questions.

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Comments (1)

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Clara B.

Finally understand why the silk dress feels heavier than my old ones. 19 momme vs probably 12. The number was the answer all along.